Game Day

The stadium on game day!

Today Cagliari's team pulled out an amazing tie against Juventus. It set the whole neighborhood off celebrating. Not in a rowdy way, but in a glad way. Poor Gus, a true-blue Juve fan, watched the match in our favorite local bar. I stopped in with him a few hours later and everyone was grinning, "Forza Cagliari!" They sent beer after beer, Sardinian Ichnusa of course. I always drink Ichnusa, which is rare because I hate beer, but this is different. It is impossible to refuse generosity here. The first time I was offered Ichnusa I said, well at least I think I said, "Oh no, no thank you! I don't like beer." As Gino filled my glass he said, "Yes, but you like Ichnusa." Gino was right, I do like drinking Ichnusa and sitting with new friends in the cozy bar. I adore the family who owns the bar, they've just saved us with food and friendship. I could watch the men in the bar shout at each other and the TV all day long. I do miss one thing though, something so completely American and delicious. Bar food. Game day bar food. 

I am thinking a lot about America today, especially Baltimore. I guess I am always thinking of America, but today I am thinking of our football. I just heard that the Ravens did it, they won! I called my favorite Baltimore boy (my big brother) and he was grilling. He does game day right. So I thought why not share the recipes I'm thinking of. They'll be hard to replicate here, but I hope they'll find their way into some Superbowl celebrations... the Ravens too!

Baltimore, hon!

Buffalo Chicken Dip

A personal favorite, especially before I knew what was in it.

• 1 pound of chicken shredded
• 2 (8 ounce) packages cream cheese, softened
• 1 cup Blue Cheese or Ranch dressing
• 3/4 to 1 cup Hot Sauce (as to your preference)
• 1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella

1. Toss chicken and hot sauce in a large pan on the stove. When chicken is well coated, add cream cheese. Mix well.

2. Add dressing. Stir in 3/4 of the cheese.

3. Transfer from pan into baking dish and bake for 30 minutes at 350. Add remaining cheese for ten more minutes. Serve with tortilla chips!

Pepperjack Stuffed Pretzels

These are my take on a Charleston favorite of Gus' served at the Kickin' Chicken. I found the recipe for soft pretzels here. I've adapted the recipe to stuff them with Pepperjack!

Prepare the dough, separating into 7-9 pieces instead of twelve. Roll into thicker pencils with your hands and flatten with a rolling pin (length-wise!)

Sprinkle P.J. cheese on flattened dough and close seam, rolling with your palms to seal. 

Fold into shape. Boil, sprinkle pepperjack on top and bake. Enjoy!

Chi-Chi's Crab Dip

With her permission.

2 (8 ounce) packages of cream cheese

1 tablespoon of mayonnaise

1 tablespoon of sour cream

1 teaspoon crushed garlic

1 teaspoon Old Bay

1 teaspoon dry mustard

2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce

1 pinch mace

1 pound lump crab meat

1 to 2 cups shredded cheddar cheese

1. Remove any shells from crab meat and set aside.

2. Mix together mayo, sour cream and W. sauce.

3. Add spices (mustard, garlic, mace).

4. Gently mix in crab meat.

5. Transfer to baking dish and bake for 30 minutes at 350.

6. Top with cheese during dish's last ten minutes in oven!

Serve with French bread or crackers! 

sweet dreams and small blessings

One of the things I miss the most about home is the way we celebrate. The holidays were hard, Christmas of course, Halloween and Thanksgiving too. I have big love for Halloween, because I have a big love for anything sweet. But also the magic of Halloween, costumes, pumpkins and everything coming to life at night. It would have been wrong to dress up as the Dukes of Hazard and hit downtown Cagliari.  I didn't particularly want to be right though. We had a couple of trick-or-treaters move quietly through the building and that was Halloween.

Thanksgiving promised to be even worse. When I woke up that morning, it was as if everyone simply forgot. I had to work, go to the market and think all the while of MomMom's gravy. I offered to bring "stuffing" in for my students and by chance ran into one of those students at the market. San Benedetto Market is indoor, with stalls pressed close to each other. There are baskets of fresh fruits and vegetables, homemade sausages and cheeses, baked breads and butcher stalls. It buzzes, with voices and people moving with purpose. I moved slow and just tried to take it all in, the smells and the food, that's when my student found me. He walked through the market with us and took us from stall to stall. He introduced us to friends who wished us a happy day, he got us samples of sausages and cheese and made us fresh pomegranate juice. I felt like an actual pilgrim being shown the way, especially on my way out when he handed me a fresh fruit basket saying, "For class and for you."

I've never known generosity like that of the Sardinian people. The fruit basket was the catalyst in a big discovery. I decided to use the apples to make an apple pie and found this recipe for pie crust. I loved the crust enough that a few days later, with the left over fruit, I made pear pastries. We ate them hot out of the oven. I love making the dough, especially how the flour feels when it comes out of the freezer. The whole apartment smells warm when they're baking too. I made dough last night so we could have pastries this morning. I woke up thinking of them!

I definitely recommend leaving the dough in the freezer overnight. Make sure to use the baking soda or rising agent, instead of doubling the salt. Sometimes I brush them with egg or melted butter and sprinkle sugar. I fill with chocolate usually, but the pear filling was my favorite! Pears diced in a simple syrup with just a little cinnamon!

I love them. There is nothing like being home for the holidays, but thank goodness for small blessings!

no bread left behind

Homemade Croutons

day-old bread cubed, one clove of garlic, butter, salt

Using the flat side of a knife crush the garlic clove. Mince.

Heat butter in a pan over low-medium heat. Saute garlic.

Remove garlic from pan being careful to leave butter. Add more butter if necessary.

Add bread and toss to coat. Allow it to toast.

Sprinkle with salt.

Remove from heat when croutons are toasted. Let cool.

tuscany

We returned early this morning from Pisa, where we began and ended our tour of Tuscany. We climbed the Leaning Tower of Pisa, wandered through the outdoor markets and art museums in Florence and finally ended up in Lucca, strolling the ancient brick walls. I love the feeling of being amazed and for five days, we were amazed over and over!

The Leaning Tower!

Pizza in Pisa (Trattoria Pizzeria) 

The thick dough was a welcome surprise!

Florence from the Tower

Window shopping for Gelato in Florence

Leaving Lucca, Gus' favorite city on our trip

Claudia's Pasticcerria in Lucca (Via Concordia) 

Made in the shop by kind Claudia herself.

In each city we climbed a tower. It wasn't our plan, outside of climbing the Leaning Tower. In Florence we decided to climb the Bell Tower by the Cathedral and in Lucca Gus noticed the Torre Guinigi while we walked the walls. Lucca has been wonderfully preserved and just being there we felt worlds away. The Tower Guinigi is a perfect symbol of Lucca. It is ancient, built of rising red brick and on top there is a grove. Seven live Oak trees grow and we stood on top of the city shaded by their branches. The Tower marks the corner of an ancient palace. There were four towers, but only one survives. We loved coming through the trees at the top of the stairs. Gus even stopped in the gift shop to read more, which is rare. He usually about jogs through them. He found out that trees have been replanted since the fourteenth century! I took my golden chance to browse a gift shop and found two cookbooks- translated from Italian to English. They're traditional Tuscan recipes, printed in Lucca and just wonderful. They were four euro each! I bought two and have loved reading the translated recipes. They're simple, precise and valuable! 

I'm excited to share the wealth! The first recipe comes from "Dreaming of the Tuscany Table" by Carla Geri Camporesi. I can't wait to try it! I've added it here verbatim.

Apple Tart (Torta di Mele)

From "Dreaming of the Tuscany Table" by Carla Geri Camporesi

5 apples peeled and cored, cut into thin slices, 12oz sugar, 4 oz butter, 2 eggs, 1/2 glass milk, 2 level tablespoons flour, 1 teaspoon baking powder

I have to say in advance that for me the amount of sugar given in the recipe is too much. However, I have to admit that the quantity indicated gives the tart a very special caramel flavour which is lost if less sugar is used. I suggest you to try out once the recipe as it stands and then possibly adjust it later according to your own taste. This recipe has quite an unusual history. The restaurant where the tart is offered is very possessive of the recipe and it was never possible to obtain. One day we had invited a friend who is a very distinguished and popular Italian film actor and when he asked for the recipe they did not know how to refuse him. It is a simple recipe but it was not easy to imagine what the ingredients were. You will notice this immediately.

Proceed by slicing the five apples very thinly (the quality is not important). Separately, blend the eggs, milk and sugar. Mix them together a bit, and then add the flour, melted butter, raising agent and the apples. Put it all in the buttered baking dish, and cook for one hour at 320-350 F. It does not matter much if it burns a little. Serve hot after letting it rest for some minutes.

I call it my jolly tart. Everyone likes it very much. I prepare it at the last minute and it never disappoints.

Camporesi, Carla. "Dreaming of the Tuscany Table." Maria Pacini Fazzi Editore. Lucca, Italy 2002.

Mucco Pisano

We spent the first of the year in Pisa. The small city has such charm. As soon as we walked within sight of that famous tower I was taken. Of course, it is leaning and I mean really leaning. We were able to climb to the top- gravity pitching us side to side throughout the ascent. The top is slanted enough that I found myself walking tiptoe. I just loved it. I left this morning planning to return. Not just for the things we saw but for the things we tasted too, particularly Mucco Pisano. It is a traditional Pisan steak and in many ways an art. There are multiple rounds of crossbreeding and ancient recipes. The taste is incredible, especially in tortelli- handmade and filled pasta. In Pisa off the Arno River there is a Spaghetteria in Piazza Carioli- Spaghetteria Tegame. Go.

auld lang syne & new lasagna

Winter sunset over Cagliari

As the sun is setting on 2011, I find myself thinking of home. I imagine my girl-friends from Charleston donning fabulous, glittery dresses and  in their gorgeous way- welcoming everything new. I wonder what this New Year will bring for my dear brother and sister. I'm glad too, that I'll win the competition of calling Mom and Dad first. I'll enter 2012 six hours before my family. This year my parents are celebrating with some of our family's oldest friends, we've welcomed so many new years with them. As I thought of them, I realized this year Gus and I will be celebrating with Cagliari, a city that has welcomed thousands of new years herself. 

One of the things I love most about Cagliari is it's ancient history. We've swam in the sea that bore ancient gods and goddesses. We've seen irreplaceable artwork and incredible athletes. We have walked along Cagliari's street and been humbled by those who have gone before us. Most of all, we've eaten. The island boasts recipes that are thousands of years old- including Casu Marzu. If you can get your head around it, I'll admit- it's good. After all, recipes don't survive thousands of years if they're not worth eating. Sardegna is home to the most delicious cheeses, particulary Pecorino Sardo, a flavorful cheese made from sheep's milk. 

Gus preparing my first taste of Cazu Marzu!

Gus is already panicked for when we move home- "Where will I find Pecorino cheese?" I have never seen cheese disappear so fast. There are various types of Pecorino- Sardo, Toscano and Romano. Almost all Pecorino is made in Sardegna, including "Romano." While Pecorino Toscano is certainly made in Tuscany from time to time, it is made by a population that relocated there- from Sardegna. I was glad to tell Gus, a lot of Pecorino is imported to the United States. In fact, Wegman's yummy grocery stores sell it! So in celebration of old cheese and a new year- here is a recipe for lasagna. What would be better for tomorrow than a giant lasagna to share with friends or family? This is the closest I will come to replicating the Christmas lasagna we received!

Lasagna

The secret of the lasagna were lots of thin layers gently and expertly made. 

for sauce:

3-5 tomatoes

chopped fresh parsley

chopped fresh basil

1 onion

1 carrot, finely grated

2-3 cloves of garlic smashed and minced

8 ounces of sausage, casing removed

1 pound of ground beef

1 can of crushed tomatoes

1 can of tomato paste

1 bay leaf

salt and pepper to taste

two generous pinches of brown sugar (or cane sugar)

red wine

olive oil

for lasagna:

two packages of lasagna noodles (or about 30 noodles)

30 ounces of ricotta

1 and 1/2 cups of grated Pecorino

4 cups of mozzarella, grated 

2 eggs

To prepare sauce:

Quarter tomatoes and put into a small pot with carrot and top of onion. Cover sparingly with water. Season with salt and pepper and stir in basil and parsley. Put on stove and allow tomatoes to boil down.

In a large sauce pot, brown sausage and ground beef. Drain majority of grease. Use olive oil to saute onion for three-four minutes. Add garlic, saute one minute being careful not to burn. Add wine and stir. Add meats and stir one minute. Add crushed tomatoes, stirring well. Give a couple minutes and add paste, filling it's empty can half-way with water to get all of the paste out. Add to sauce.

When tomatoes have boiled down, remove top of onion and dump pot into sauce. Add sugar and bay leaf. Allow to boil and then turn to a low simmer uncovered. If sauce is becoming too thick, add a lid but I prefer a thick tomato sauce for this lasagna!

Mix ricotta with one cup of the pecorino. Stir in eggs.

Boil noodles about seven minutes.

In the bottom of a 9 x 13 put a thin layer of sauce. Top with five noodles overlapping each other. Spread a thin layer of ricotta mixture on noodles (remember you want lots of layers!) and top with small amount of sauce. Try not to press ricotta down, let it remain airy! Sprinkle mozzarella on sauce, but remember to save at least one cup of mozzarella for top of lasagna.

Place five more noodles on top of bottom layer and repeat- ricotta mixture, sauce, mozzarella. Build five-six thin layers! Alternate thicker layers if you'd like!

Spread a thin layer of sauce on top of lasagna and top with mozzarella and leftover Pecorino. Allow to cook for forty minutes.

The test here is inserting a fork into the center of the lasagna and seeing if it comes out warm!

Happy New Year!

The Last Supper of 2011

Tonight we’re having a “last supper” of sorts. It is the last big meal we’ll cook and eat in our little apartment before we bid 2011 goodbye. We travel this weekend, so I know between welcoming 2012 and boarding a plane, we won’t be sitting down for a meal here until we return. We’ll be back on the Epiphany, a big holiday in Cagliari. The star of Bethlehem is lit on the Bastione San Remy. The hills here and domes of churches certainly remind me of the little town of Bethlehem. It is impossible to walk the streets here, see the nativities they’ve set up and not imagine the Christmas story. While we strolled today, blown here and there by the wind, we stopped in a local shop, Il Suq. They sell spices and ingredients hard to find on the island and in Italy as a whole. There are walls of spices, whole and ground. They claim to be bringing the Orient to the island! After today I sure feel like the three kings arrived early- swap myrrh for Mexican spices. Anything improbable, go to Il Suq (Via Napoli in the Marina District- just behind the crumbling old church of San Lucia)! A friend, Ashton, showed me the shop and I am grateful to her each time I stop in. Coming from the U.S. I have a big love for Mexican food (and drinks) so I stocked up today. Tonight we’re having roasted Mexican pork tacos. It smells a bit like home here and with the wind outside- it is great to just be inside!

Flour tortillas are hard to find here, not impossible but I’ve started to make my own! It is easy and they taste so much better. I found this recipe searching the internet and it worked! The first night we ate them plain and warm, right from the stove! My only adaptation is that I use 4-5 tablespoons of butter. The “burro” in Sardegna is too good. Burro means donkey and yes, at first I was skeptical. Just say it out loud to yourself- donkey butter. Truly though, I was a burro believer first try!

The pork I also found online! I love the pork roasts here. They are cut by butchers and netted. I adapted this recipe a lot. There was just too much going on!

Mex-Italian Pork Tacos

5 pinches of red pepper flakes (more if you like it spicy)

2 peppers, I used red- chopped but seeds, flesh, everything saved for broth

½ lemon (or lime)

1 2 to 3-pound boneless pork shoulder (five pounds is a bit big! I was only serving two though!)

sea salt and fresh ground pepper

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, chopped (about 2 cups)

3 large garlic cloves, coarsely chopped

2 bay leaves

2 teaspoons dried oregano

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground cumin

1 teaspoon paprika (preferably spicy)

1 pinch of cloves (use your nose- you only want a hint of cloves!)

1-2 pinches cinnamon-sugar

12-ounces of beer

Before we begin- let me tell you! Cilantro is NO where to be found in sunny Sardegna. If I could have gotten my hands on some Cilantro, I would have used it. I love it, I am praying for it to come along. Beware though- people who have Cilantro allergies taste soap when they eat it!

1)      Place all of the chopped red peppers (especially the seeds!) into a pot. Add top and bottom of onion- the part you usually chop and throw away! Put garlic, red pepper flakes and salt in. Cover with water and begin to boil.

2)      Squeeze in juice from ½ lemon and toss the rind in too. Add cloves. Let boil uncover to lose about ½ of the water.

3)     Drain through a fine colander so only liquid remains. While the liquid cools- Mix cumin, coriander, oregano and paprika.

5)     Using a tablespoon, add liquid to the spices to make a paste. Save broth you don’t use!

6)     Rub paste on pork until it is well covered. Wrap meat in plastic or foil and allow to marinate for 12-24 hours in the refrigerator. The longer the better!

7)     When ready allow pork to warm.

8)      Heat oil in a pot. Add onion and a more red pepper flakes if you like it spicy! Saute for 1-2 minutes.  Add reserve broth, bay leaves and cinnamon-sugar. Add pork and cover with beer. Cover pot.

9)      Allow to cook on medium for an hour- thirty minutes each side. Then turn to low and cook until pork begins to pull. Remove the meat and pull it, pour cooking liquid through colander and add juice to meat. Enjoy!

I served with flour tortillas, a ball of cold, fresh mozzarella and sautéed onions/peppers. 

Tacos!

The tortillas were warm, the pork turned out perfect and we were glad! Now if only I can get free baskets of chips and salsa moving through the house...